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To his consternation, however, among the other five nominees was a 12-member Russian expedition that had scaled the north face of 25,295-foot Jannu, a sheer wall in Nepal considered one of the climbing world’s “last great problems.” House objected to the way the Russians had sieged their route, the dozens of bolts they’d drilled, and the fact that they’d left most of their gear (including 77 ropes) hanging on the mountain

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