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It’s actually the show’s major Japanese designers (Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo) that show a more uneasy, or at least tentative relationship to the kimono: Kawakubo, for instance, is often seen as rejecting it, but in one dress on display in the exhibition from Comme des Garçons Autumn/Winter 1991, a yuzen artist applies gold and black brushwork just as would have been the case in kimono of Edo times

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